VISITS AND VACATIONS

 Hello ladies and gents this is the Viking telling you that today we are talking about 

NAPLES

Italy’s third city is in the midst of a renaissance. Get around with our ultimate guide to the best things to do in Naples

Charming, hodgepodge, run-down Naples, once a rogue and dangerous Italian city to be avoided, is in the midst of a grand renaissance. Back on the map thanks to the success of Elena Ferrante’s ‘Neapolitan Novels’ and Roberto Saviano’s crime saga ‘Gomorrah’ – plus the international TV adaptations of both – travellers who once would have bypassed this rough-hewn city are flocking here in droves.

And unlike Rome, Florence and Venice, increasingly hollowed out by mass tourism, Naples has still held on to much of its character and old-world charm. Laundry laces the back alleys, markets brim with sweet-smelling local produce, life here is lived on the streets. Neapolitans, despite their dodgy reputation, welcome visitors like guests in their home.

Layers of history are visible as you wander Naples’s narrow, cobbled streets, dipping in and out of the many bars, restaurants and galleries started by the new generation of entrepreneurs, chefs and artists reinvigorating the city once again. Of course, it also has the advantage of having one of the most stunning backdrops in the world. With Vesuvius to the east, the ancient port of Pozzuoli to the west and the timeless islands of Ischia, Procida and Capri nestled in the glittering bay, it’s no wonder the Romans nicknamed the area Campania Felix – the happy land. Head here today, and you’ll quickly understand why. Buone vacanze!

1. Chiostri di Santa Chiara

What is it? Behind the restored Gothic basilica of the same name, you’ll find this network of cloisters belonging to the closed order of Santa Chiara. Bombed by the allies during the Second World War, the vast complex’s walkways are lined with blossoming orange trees and covered in bright majolica tiles depicting typical 18th-century Neapolitan scenes.

Why go? Bang in the city’s chaotic centre, the ornately decorated cloisters provide a much-needed slice of calm  after a long day avoiding mopeds and three-wheeler Piaggio Apes.

2. Via San Gregorio Armeno

What is it? The city’s most famous alleyway, dedicated to the selling of kitsch nativity souvenirs.

Why go? Sneak away from the crowds into the hidden cloister of the San Gregorio Armeno church, with its grand 17th-century enclosed garden filled with citrus trees. It’s only open for two hours in the morning before the nuns reclaim it for themselves.

3. Castel Sant’Elmo

What is it? Though you’re not likely to need to use the metro during your visit, it’s worth seeking out the funicular lines that shunt residents up to the hilly suburbs. Their colourful carriages are used by 10 million passengers a year.

Why go? For the panoramic views from the top. Take the Centrale line from Augusteo to Petraio then walk to the medieval Castel Sant’Elmo. The tangle of Naples city centre’s buildings is framed by the sea on one side and Vesuvius on the other.

and as always have a chilled day from the Viking