VISITS AND VACATIONS: CHANIA

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Things to Do in Chania

On the north coast in western Crete, this is one of Greece's most beautiful towns. The cobbled streets are filled with shops selling clothes, ceramics, and local artworks, and the city is a favorite destination for holidaying Greeks in August. Chania is a wonderful place to lose yourself in its charms for an afternoon that could easily stretch into an evening dinner at a romantic restaurant overlooking the Venetian harbour.

This site has been inhabited since the Bronze Age, when the Minoans founded the ancient city-state of Kydonia here almost 5,000 years ago. However, Chania gained its present layout in the 13th century under the Venetians (1204-1645), who fortified it and made it the island's capital. In 1971, the island's capital was moved to Heraklion.

1. Old Port

Dating from the 14th century, the old harbour is ringed by a promenade lined with seafood eateries and cafés; it buzzes with visitors in summer, and is totally enchanting by night.

As you wander to the east of the old harbour, you'll pass by the small mosque, erected by the Ottoman Turks after they took Chania in 1645. Today it serves as a small art gallery. Beyond the mosque, stand the arsenals, where the Venetians repaired their galleys, and a yachting marina.

This entire stretch of coast is protected by a breakwater, and on its tip stands a lighthouse-it was designed by an Egyptian architect in 1839 and is strangely reminiscent of a minaret. On the point across the water from the lighthouse stands the Maritime Museum and the Firkas Fortress.

2. Old Town

One of the best things to do in Chania is wander through the maze of narrow, pedestrian-only streets in the historic old town. An architectural style jumps out at you around every corner. Shops lining the streets and stairways sell souvenirs, and cute restaurants and cafés are tucked into shady patios.

As you walk around, you'll come across four distinct areas, each with its own look and feel: Kastelli is hilly and quite old with very narrow, twisty walkways. If you come across a group of tourists, it's often too tight to pass. Topanas is just back from the old port and has narrow roadways. The Jewish District is easily identified by its wider streets. The Splantzia District has the greatest number of outdoor cafés and restaurants, mostly located around a huge plane tree in front of the Church of St. Nicolas.

3. Walk the Seawall to the Lighthouse

One of the best views of the old port and Chania's old town can be found by taking a pleasant stroll along the Venetian seawall to the 19th-century lighthouse. The walk takes about 15 minutes one way, at a leisurely pace. This walk will also take you by some of the main sights in the old port, including the Yiali Tzami mosque and the Venetian arsenals.

You can see the lighthouse from everywhere along the harbour. Follow the seawall all the way along until you come to the start of the breakwater, leading to the lighthouse. From here, you can either take a lower walkway or upper walkway. The upper path looks like the easiest, but quickly becomes narrower and then very rough and uneven. It's best to take the lower walkway. Beyond the first set of stairs, there is no easy way to get down from the upper walkway.

Although the lighthouse is not open to visitors, you can still climb the set of stairs to the first level at the base for views back to the city and out to sea and as always have a chilled day from the Viking